What Is Raw Denim?
The essential guide
Raw denim, simply explained
Raw denim is denim in its original state: unwashed or minimally processed, with no artificial fading or distressing. It begins dark and structured, then softens and develops a fade pattern unique to the wearer.
- Unwashed or minimally processed
- No artificial fading
- Built to evolve through wear
Origin: Japan
Selvedge denim was once the standard, woven on shuttle looms throughout the early 20th century. By the 1950s, demand for denim exploded, and manufacturers turned to projectile looms. These machines could produce fabric five times faster and nearly twice as wide; 50–60 inches compared to the 30 inches of shuttle looms. As a result, selvedge nearly disappeared from mainstream production.
In Japan, however, shuttle looms were never abandoned. Mills in Okayama Prefecture preserved and refined the craft, not only out of nostalgia but from a commitment to fabric quality and variety.
At Naked & Famous Denim, we travel to Japan multiple times each year to work directly with mills in this region. These collaborations result in exclusive, small-batch denims ranging from ultra-heavyweight and highly textured fabrics to experimental blends such as cashmere, milk and linen, as well as glow-in-the-dark and scratch-and-sniff denim. For us, it always starts at the source.
shuttle looms
Shuttle looms, like the original Toyoda machines still operating in Japan, work differently from the wide, high-speed looms used in mass production today. Instead of firing individual weft yarns across the warp with air or projectiles, shuttle looms carry a small wooden shuttle back and forth. Each pass lays down a continuous strand of yarn, interlacing with the warp and sealing the edge of the fabric as it goes.
The process is slower, noisier, and more variable, but that’s exactly where its value lies. Because shuttle looms weave under lower tension, the fabric often develops subtle irregularities: slubs, yarn shifts, and surface texture that can’t be replicated on modern industrial looms. The width is narrower, usually around 30 inches, and the result is a self-finished edge called the selvedge. Far from decorative, it’s structural proof of traditional shuttle weaving.
Because shuttle looms weave under lower tension, the fabric often develops subtle irregularities: slubs, yarn shifts, and surface texture that can’t be replicated on modern industrial looms. The width is narrower, usually around 30 inches, and the result is a self-finished edge called the selvedge. Far from decorative, it’s structural proof of traditional shuttle weaving.
Indigo
Rope dyeing is the most labor-intensive method of indigo application, perfected by Japanese mills. Warp yarns are batched into thick ropes and passed through towering machines that dip them into indigo baths, then lift them back up into open air to oxidize. This dip-and-oxidize cycle is repeated many times to build the desired shade.
Unlike vat dyeing, which fully saturates the fibers, rope dyeing only dyes the outer layer of each cotton yarn, leaving the core white. As the surface indigo wears away over time, the white interior is exposed—this contrast is what produces raw denim’s signature fades.
Selvedge
Product of shuttle loom weaving—a tightly finished edge that prevents fraying and defines the full usable width of the fabric. Nowadays, it’s also a clear indicator that the fabric wasn’t mass-produced on high-speed, wide-width looms. If there’s a selvedge, it means the denim came from a traditional, narrow shuttle loom—machines that operate slowly, under low tension, and require more setup and operator involvement.
Historically, mills identified fabrics for different customers by using colored lines in the selvedge, most famously red. Today, the selvedge edge is also a creative detail. At Naked & Famous Denim we’ve played with green, orange, pink, glow-in-the-dark, rainbow, and yes, a few with curse words woven right into the edge. (Go ahead, roll that cuff and raise a few eyebrows. We dare you.)
It’s one of the few places on a finished pair of jeans where the production method remains visible and we love it.
treatments
Even raw denim isn’t completely untouched. After weaving, most fabrics go through finishing treatments that prepare them for cutting, sewing, and long-term wear. These steps don’t erase the “raw” status, they simply shape how the fabric shrinks, how seams behave, and how the surface feels. The most common are sanforization, anti-skewing, and singeing. Learn more below ➝
Sanforization is a mechanical pre-shrink process invented in the 1930s by Sanford L. Cluett. In this treatment, the fabric is moistened, stretched, and then compressed against a heated rubber belt and cylinder to stabilize it. The process ensures that most shrinkage happens before sewing. Sanforized raw denim keeps its raw, unwashed character but will shrink only about 1–3% after the first wash, while unsanforized (loom-state) denim can shrink up to 10% and usually requires a hot soak before wear.
➝ Most are sanforized unless specifically noted as unsanforized.
For example, the High Noon Selvedge is unsanforized and then given a single rinse.
Denim twill naturally contains torque—an angular tension built into the weave—that can cause the legs to twist after washing. Anti-skewing offsets this by rotating the fabric slightly in the opposite direction during finishing.
➝ Anti-skewing is applied to most of our denims. However, some unique or experimental weaves can’t undergo this process.
For example, the Revival Frankenstein alternates between left-hand and right-hand twill every few inches, which makes it incompatible with anti-skewing. Over time the fabric naturally develops leg twist.
After weaving, denim often retains small, fuzzy fibers that stick out from the yarn surface. Singeing is a finishing step where the fabric is passed quickly over an open flame, heated copper plates, or gas burners to burn away these protruding fibers without damaging the cloth. This process leaves the fabric cleaner, with sharper twill definition and deeper color, ensuring that the unique yarn structure and dye qualities take center stage rather than being obscured by lint or fuzz.
➝ Most are singed unless specifically noted.
For example, the Flying Squirrel Selvedge is intentionally not singed, keeping its naturally hairy surface intact.
Every pair of our jeans is cut, sewn, and finished in Canada. It’s how we’ve always done it, and how we’ll keep doing it. All of this work happens in our own factories, where skilled teams handle every stage of construction. The result combines Canadian manufacturing with premium Japanese selvedge denim sourced from some of the world’s best mills.
Wear. Fade. Repeat.
A brand new pair of Weird Guy in Natural Indigo Selvedge stands on the left; on the right, the same jeans after months of wear.
Before
After
fades explained
Denim is one of the few materials, along with leather, that gets better the longer you use it. Raw denim doesn’t just wear down; it adapts. Creases, fades, and tears form in response to your lifestyle, turning the jeans into a record of how you live. Pre-distressed jeans miss that connection, since their fades are placed on a fit model’s body and rarely match your own. Raw denim evolves with you, not for you.
With wear, common fade patterns emerge:
- Whiskers: Horizontal creases at the hips and front pockets from sitting and walking
- Honeycombs: Angular stacks behind the knees from bending
- Stacks: Abrasion at the hem where excess length bunches above shoes
- Thigh fades: Smooth wear across the front thighs from movement and friction
- Train tracks: Parallel lines along the outseam and inseam from fabric rubbing
denim weight categories
Denim weight refers to the weight of the fabric per square yard, measured in ounces. It’s determined by the thickness of the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) yarns, as well as the density of the weave. Different weights affect comfort, durability, and break-in time.
Soft and easy to wear from the start. Great for warmer climates or year-round comfort if you want jeans that break in quickly.
The most versatile range—durable but still comfortable once broken in. Works well across all seasons and balances strength with wearability.
Rigid, dense, and built for endurance. These jeans take commitment to break in but reward you with high-contrast, dramatic fades.
In 2025 we launched the Super Heavyweight 40oz - The World's Heaviest Denim Jean. An extreme benchmark in denim—stiff, punishing, and guaranteed uncomfortable.
→ See the 40 oz jeans
How to Wash Raw Denim Jeans
For most Naked & Famous Denim jeans: turn them inside out, fasten the fly, wash them separately in cold water with a small amount of mild detergent, then hang or lay them flat to dry.
There is no required washing schedule. Wash your jeans when they are dirty, smell, or need refreshing. Waiting longer can encourage higher-contrast early fades, while washing more regularly generally creates softer, more even fading.
- Check the sewn-in care label and product description first.
- Use cold water to reduce indigo loss and unwanted shrinkage.
- A hand wash or soak offers the gentlest option.
- If the care label permits machine washing, choose a gentle cycle.
- Avoid bleach, fabric softener and the tumble dryer.
- Wash separately because indigo may transfer.
Unsanforized denim, stretch blends, coatings and experimental fabrics may require different care. Product-specific instructions always take priority.
Raw denim questions
Frequently asked questions
What is raw denim?
Raw denim is denim that has not been artificially faded or distressed after weaving. It typically begins dark and structured, then softens and develops fades through wear and washing.
Is raw denim the same as selvedge denim?
No. Raw describes the fabric's finishing and condition, while selvedge describes a self-finished edge created during narrow shuttle-loom weaving. Denim can be raw without being selvedge, and selvedge denim can be washed or rinsed.
How do I wash Naked & Famous Denim jeans?
For most pairs, turn the jeans inside out, fasten the fly, wash separately in cold water with a small amount of mild detergent, then hang or lay flat to dry. Always check the care label and product notes first. Read the complete raw denim washing guide.
Do selvedge or Japanese denim jeans need different washing?
Not simply because they are selvedge or Japanese. Care depends more on whether the denim is raw or washed, sanforized or unsanforized, its fibre blend and any special treatment. Follow the product-specific instructions first. Read the complete raw denim washing guide.
Do raw denim jeans shrink?
They can. Sanforized denim is mechanically stabilized to reduce shrinkage, while unsanforized denim generally shrinks more. The exact amount varies by fabric, treatment, water temperature, and drying method, so always check the individual product description.
Does raw denim stretch?
Most raw denim relaxes with wear, especially at the waist, seat, and knees. The amount varies according to the fabric, fit, construction, and whether stretch fibres are present.
How often should raw denim be washed?
There is no required schedule. Wash your jeans when they are dirty, smell, or need refreshing. Waiting longer can preserve a darker colour and encourage higher-contrast fades, while regular washing usually creates softer, more even fading.
Can raw denim go in a washing machine?
Yes. Turn the jeans inside out, fasten the fly, use cold water and a gentle cycle, and choose a small amount of mild detergent. Wash separately because indigo may transfer, then hang or lay flat to dry.
How long does raw denim take to break in?
Break-in time depends on denim weight, weave, fit, and how frequently the jeans are worn. Lightweight denim may soften quickly, while dense heavyweight denim can require weeks of regular wear.
What denim weight should I choose?
Up to 12oz is generally lighter and easier to wear in warm weather. Denim around 12–15oz offers a versatile balance of structure and comfort. Denim above 15oz feels denser and typically requires a longer break-in period.
Why does raw denim bleed indigo?
Rope-dyed indigo is concentrated near the surface of the yarn. Friction and moisture can transfer some of that surface dye, especially when the denim is new. This is also what allows the fabric to develop distinctive fades.
Should I size down in raw denim?
Do not size down automatically. Compare the garment measurements with a pair that fits you well, consider the rise and silhouette, and review the product's fabric notes. Stretch and shrinkage vary from one denim to another.